Italian travel: Think differently

Anna Bonavita is a former physicist with a passion for culture, cuisine and environment. Born in a small village in Bulgaria but swept up in the waves of globalization, she claims several countries as the source of her cultural identity. Her travel nonprofit, Esperienza, provides small-scale, immersive experiences. She is also the founder of the Italian Cultural Center of Minneapolis/St. Paul, the Italian Film Festival, and The Communal Table.

Lisa Venticinque

This time of the year many of us begin to dream of traveling to distant places. As Baby Boomers, we often possess both time and money to allow us to make yet another memorable trip to (where else)… Italy! The mere mention of Italy conjures up iconic images: the epicenter of the Roman empire, the hub of Catholicism, and the birthplace of the Renaissance. Indeed, Italy’s rich heritage in art, history, religion, architecture, fashion, design, music, and cuisine has deeply influenced Western cultural tradition.
With more UNESCO World Heritage sites than any other country in the world, Italy’s tourist volume is overwhelming, relentless, and focused predominantly on the biggest attractions: Venice, Rome, and Florence. This phenomenon has even earned a name, over-tourism, or if you prefer, “The Venice Syndrome.” It happens when such formerly desirable locations are overrun by tourism, causing notably regrettable changes in local character, and diminishing tourists’ experiences.
According to the World Bank, in 2019 Italy welcomed 100 million tourists. Venice, a small island city of 51,000 residents, alone attracted 20 million visitors. Such a stunningly high number of visitors in a small city has made Venice ground zero for studying the phenomenon of over-tourism. Those residents who remain from Venice’s population height of 170,000 just a few decades ago, are there simply to serve tourists’ needs. High real estate costs, to some extent fueled by the Airbnb phenomenon and fading infrastructure, have caused a massive exodus of residents. An article in the Guardian reported that the remaining residents fear becoming “relics in a museum.” The sad reality is that it seems like everyone wants to see Venice for a day, and in the process of doing it the city is losing character and its very substance – its people.
It is easy to explain this phenomenon when combining Venice’s unique physical, cultural, and historical attractiveness with the power of external forces: low-cost airlines, especially within Europe, proliferation of giant cruise ships, and the tens of millions of tourists who are motivated by checking items off of their bucket lists.
I remember reading in a Columbia University publication the proud statement of an alumnus: “My wife and I have visited 154 countries.” I do understand the bucket list mentality. I, like many of us, have participated in friendly exchanges of bucket lists and a discussion of often-superficial travel experiences. But I think most of us also know there’s a better way to travel. We know that our social media selfies and historic monument check marks do not really make for satisfying, enriching travel experiences.
Tourism represents the largest service industry in the world and is here to stay, so let’s begin with the hopeful idea that it can be a catalyst for good if we re-think our approach. As inhabitants of a privileged part of the world, we Americans are not just part of the problem, but of the solution, as well. We, as enlightened, conscientious travelers, could begin seeing the destructive force of over-tourism, and look for a positive alternative to its consuming reality. Perhaps we could give a second thought to cruise ship offers, inexpensive packages to oversold places, or destination-hopping travel spoofed by the 1960’s film “If it’s Tuesday This Must be Belgium.”
I encourage you to recognize that a bucket list approach can promote a superficial and ultimately unsatisfying approach to appreciating cultural treasures. I invite you to embrace a different ethos: travel less but stay longer. Localized stays create more meaningful experiences, more lasting memories, and result in more positive emotional, intellectual, and economic impact for everyone involved.
And here is an idea. As we travel to desirable places, what if we put connecting with people and local cultures first as our primary objective? Inevitably we will need to embrace an intentionally slower pace, one which will keep us grounded and allow us to reach out to others and locals.
When I lived in Italy I watched with growing discomfort, bordering on disgust, the corrosive impact of mass tourism on places that have succeeded far too well in attracting visitors. How and where we travel truly matters. So, for a moment, imagine a trip that not only will take your body to a new place, but will elevate your mind and spirits to a higher level of being. This is my vision, and it’s why I started a travel-based nonprofit (Esperienza) that leads tours to Italy. We keep our groups small, and we create time and place where our travelers fall in love with undiscovered little towns and rural places, and people that are far removed from the disappointing impact of crowds, tours, and faux-authentic experiences. The slow, immersive, intimate experiential journey that we offer helps to genuinely connect with local communities of artists, chefs, farmers, musicians, and even politicians, gaining greater insights into locals’ lives and culture. Friendships are formed in spite of the language barrier, and some of our visitors become regulars and keep coming again for the same – the warmth of human connection, the profound joy of conviviality, and the feeling of being fully alive. The honest food and wine of Romagna, my favorite off-the-beaten path region, always helps as well.
Our vision is that travel should be an inspiring and powerful force, with an underlying commitment to the local environment. People, communities, and culture are at the forefront, reinforcing creativity, enrichment, and preservation of cultural identity, while also providing opportunities for sustainable rural development. Venice, Rome, and Florence don’t need us, nor do the Amalfi Coast or Cinque Terre. But the rest of Italy does, and perhaps we need it even more. It is difficult to disagree with Ernest Hemingway, who said it best: “We only half live over here. The Italians live all the way.” Find out for yourself!